Short answer: fixed 230 V wiring in a van or caravan (power points, a shore-power inlet, an inverter/charger wired into the van's circuits) is a licensed electrician's job. Australian regulators are consistent on that, and WA and SA say it specifically for caravans. What you can do is the planning: work out what you'll run, choose the gear, and hand your electrician the maker's manual.
This guide covers what the rules say and what to ask for. It deliberately doesn't tell you how to wire 230 V.
Can I wire 230V in my van myself?
Not unless you're a licensed electrician. Here's what the regulators say, in their own words, because the exact wording matters here:
| Where | What the regulator says |
|---|---|
| WA (Building and Energy) | "Only a licensed electrician can install RCDs", and "Caravan wiring must comply with Australian New Zealand Standard AS/NZS 3001." |
| SA (My Licence, on buying a caravan) | "Electrical wiring should have been fitted and certified by a licensed electrician." |
| NSW | "By law, any electrical wiring work must be done by a licensed electrician." |
| VIC (Energy Safe Victoria) | "Don't be tempted to do your own electrical work – it's illegal and it can also be deadly." |
| QLD (Electrical Safety Office) | "Always get a licensed electrician to do any electrical work." |
Two things worth knowing about that table:
- The NSW, VIC and QLD pages are about electrical work in general, not caravans in particular. The general rule still covers 230 V wiring, wherever it is. NSW's two pages also word it slightly differently: one says "by a licensed electrician", the other "by, or under the supervision of" one. Either way, a licensed electrician is responsible for it.
- Tasmania, the ACT and the NT aren't covered here. Check with your own state or territory's electrical safety regulator.
What standard covers caravan wiring?
AS/NZS 3001. Since 2022 it comes in two parts, which replaced AS/NZS 3001:2008:
- AS/NZS 3001.2:2022 covers the wiring in "connectable electrical installations" (caravans, campers and the like) used for accommodation, habitation or recreation, that plug into a 230 V supply. Standards Australia's summary says it also covers extra-low voltage systems (under 50 V AC or 120 V ripple-free DC), which takes in the 12 V side too.
- AS/NZS 3001.1:2022 covers the site supplies those installations plug into.
It's the standard your electrician works to. You don't need to buy it, but it's worth knowing it exists, and that the WA regulator names it.
What paperwork should I get?
A certificate from the electrician who did the work. The name differs by state:
- SA: a Certificate of Compliance from whoever did the installation. (SA's advice is aimed at buyers, but it applies just as well to a fit-out.)
- NSW: electricians must lodge a Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work (CCEW), which confirms the work has been tested and complies with regulations.
- VIC: a licensed electrician must give you a Certificate of Electrical Safety (COES) whenever they finish any electrical installation work.
If you're buying a second-hand van with 230 V added after it left the factory, asking for that certificate is a good start.
Does a caravan need an RCD?
Yes. WA's Building and Energy say "Caravans are required to have a Residual Current Device (RCD) installed. One RCD is the minimum requirement but more than one may be needed", and only a licensed electrician can install them.
An inverter/charger needs its own protection on its output too. Victron's MultiPlus-II manual calls for an earth leakage circuit breaker, and a fuse or circuit breaker rated for the expected load, in series with the output. Never bypass an RCD, even "just to test something".
What's different about an inverter/charger in a van?
An inverter/charger makes 230 V from the battery and also takes 230 V in from shore power, and there are specific earthing rules for switching between the two. A few points from Victron's MultiPlus-II manual show why it belongs with an electrician:
- Who installs it: "This product may only be installed by a qualified electrical engineer."
- Earth and neutral: a built-in ground relay links neutral to the chassis when there's no shore power, and opens before shore power connects. That's what lets an earth leakage breaker on the output work properly.
- Mobile installs: unplugging from shore power also disconnects that earth, so the inverter's casing must be connected to the vehicle chassis.
- Grounding: it's a safety class I device; its AC terminals need an uninterruptible ground, and the ground conductor should be at least 4 mm².
- Input and output limits: on the 3 kVA model the AC input must be protected at 32 A or less, and with PowerAssist the output can supply up to 32 + 13 = 45 A. The output cabling has to be sized for that, not for the shore supply.
- RCD type: because of its isolating transformer, Victron say type A RCDs can be used.
None of that is meant as instructions. It's what your electrician will be working to, and why it isn't a weekend job. (For the inverter's DC side, its watts, battery cable and fuse, see our inverter guide.)
What lead should I use at a powered site?
The regulators are specific here too:
- VIC: the power supply cord to your caravan should be in good condition and rated at 15 amps.
- WA: the supply lead must be one continuous length, rated at 15 amps, and no more than 10 metres long.
So: one lead, 15 A, in good nick, and no joining two together to reach the post.
What can I do myself?
The planning, which is a big part of the job:
- Work out your 230 V loads and which run together. Our sizing guide and inverter guide cover the sums.
- Choose the gear, and give the electrician its manual.
- Decide how the system gets built. A pre-wired board can take a lot of the 12 V and inverter wiring off the table, but its 230 V connections still go to a licensed electrician. See pre-wired board, DIY or auto-electrician?
Inverter/chargers like the MultiPlus-II 12/3000 are in inverter/chargers, and shore-power inlets and plugs are in AC and shore power.